
Entering into Pokhara
Pokhara
The views of the city and mountains from the bus in Pokhara were quite pretty, even if the power lines got in the way sometimes.
The bus terminated in a large, dirt parking lot. A few aggressive touts were outside the bus, but I'm practiced at ignoring / declining them.
My itinerary specified that I needed to make my own way from the bus to my hotel (it was apparently a "5 minute walk".) The hotel was not mentioned in Lonely Planet, so I printed out a Google Map.
But either the hotel coordinates, the bus coordinates, or just my usually decent sense of direction was completely off. I wandered around for at least half an hour, asking directions twice. Once, a taxi driver asked if I needed a ride. I said, "Only if I can't find it on my own." About 10 minutes later, I gave up, walked back to him and told him I'd take the ride. But it turns out I was very close. The hotel I was looking for was right off the main road, the taxi driver explained, and he kindly pointed the way. Sure, enough, there was the sign with the arrow that I was looking for.
As soon as I arrived, the hotel staff was relieved. Apparently, they had sent someone to pick me up and were worried when they couldn't find me!

The Awesome Hotel Kantipur
The hotel was wonderful. A spacious room, well-manicured grounds, beautiful buildings and a super-friendly staff. Not to mention a rooftop view! The sheets and towels were a step above "India Clean" at least, but I wish as much care was spent on cleanliness as was on everything else, which was near perfect.
After checking in, sorting the schedule out for the following day (a city tour and paragliding!) and consulting the guide book, I headed out to town. The hotel turned out to be on one end of Lakeside Rd, the main street full of shops and restaurants, so it was easy to orient myself.

The Main Drag
The phrase "Namaste" seems used more often in Nepal than in India (at least, perhaps, when talking to foreigners, like me.) Shopkeepers often called out "Namaste!" or "Good evening, madam!" or "How are you?" as I walked by. A large percentage of the people on the streets were foreign, often young backpackers, so I did not stand out as much as usual.

Random Ping Pong
I walked by a stone table. One guy among a bunch of guys enthusiastically playing ping-pong on it started chatting with me as I passed. I stopped to talk. He seemed easy-going enough, though stood kind of close. The conversation was friendly and he did not seem to want anything. I eventually asked if I could take a photo of the table tennis players and he agreed.
I was going to continue my walk when an older woman who had been standing nearby (I half wondered if it was the ping-pong dude's mother) started talking to me. Turned out, she just wanted to sell stuff to me. Mental and physical slump. It's so strange when people want to sell me jewelry. I don't wear a lot, the occasional earrings or necklace (and I was wearing the minimum now, while traveling) and that, combined with telling the person "I don't wear much jewelry" you think would lessen the enthusiasm. But that phrase has been universally ignored. She wanted me to come to her house and look at her wares. The idea of spending my extremely limited time being awkwardly obliged to buy some overpriced stuff I didn't want did not sound like fun. She was polite, but persistent and I was trying to remain nice, but I just eventually kept walking.

Wha...?
A restaurant mentioned in Lonely Planet appealed to me. Probably because the description mentioned quality beef and I hadn't eaten beef in almost 11 months. Of course, wouldn't you know it, New Everest Steakhouse must have been the one restaurant to move or go out of business since the guidebook edition was published. I could find all the places around it, but not that one. I did eventually settle on something that claimed to be "Pokhara's Best Steakhouse". All I can say is that it must have been the only steakhouse. First, they cooked it so shockingly rare that it made me question what "medium" actually meant. They cooked it more upon request, of course, but even when it was satisfactorily not raw, it tasted like cheap (and old) meat. I couldn't even eat three bites. That explains the price (hovering around $5), which should have made me worry, especially for such a thick cut, but I had been getting hungry at the time. I ate the potatoes around it for dinner with a $5 wine in a cute little glass.
I walked back down the other side of the street, looked up and saw the sign on the left. Yeah, I'm guessing not a convenience store, despite the similarity of the logo...
PARAGLIDING!
I'd never been paragliding before. I actually wanted to try
parahawking but my tour company talked me out of it for some reason. Still, this was the highlight of my trip.

"Get High With Us"
Avia Club Nepal picked me up at my hotel the next morning. Dawning with near-perfect weather, I was psyched. The truck drove up a few blocks to the main office so I could sign all the waivers. Figuring out that my tour company had pre-paid was a little confusing and involved facsimiles handwritten and stapled to my receipt, but it all worked.
I met my super awesome tandem pilot Claudio, the other riders and pilots, and then the 13 or so of us proceeded to pile into a pick-up truck that was probably meant for half that. I sat in the back seat with three others.

(The drive up was, I am guessing, more dangerous than the glide down...)
We drove north through Pokhara then started up the mountain. The dirt road was bumpy and one lane only as we climbed. Once, no joke, chickens crossed the road in front of us. Shortly after, we were stopped at an unofficial-looking checkpoint where it was confirmed we all had tickets to fly (we had been warned of this ahead of time, at least.)
Then we continued up another ten minutes until we came to a stop at a trailhead. We disembarked for a short hike to a nice area of slightly-sloped grassland that dropped off. The take-off spot.


Hiking up to the Takeoff Spot


Parachute Prep and Takeoff!
Now my turn...

All Geared Up
Getting all the equipment on is a paradoxical mix of growing nerves and settling nerves. Equipment! I'm doing this, OMG! But, equipment. I'll probably be safe now. It helped that Claudio was all sorts of awesome. He was very calm and easy-going and had an air of knew-what-he-was-doing about him. That helped settle any anxiety. He was from South America and his English was near flawless. I was more excited than scared by the time we walked over to our own parachute.
Claudio hooked us in.
Then we waited for the wind.
I would feel it, he said, coming up over the hill. The air was still. He said that, when we started, to try to run for the edge, even though it would feel like it was pulling up to much to be able to run at all.

Selfie
He was right. When the wind came and pushed the chute out behind us and we started moving forward, I tried to run and immediately found it useless, but then I remembered he said to try, so I kind of tip-toe-ran. But soon enough, we were over the side and I tucked in.
It was an extremely calm take off. We did not seem to change speed or direction, we were just suddenly floating in the air. I was not scared, though I was sufficiently quiet that Claudio asked if I was doing okay. He had me adjust my position until it was like I was sitting on the strap, then he had me cross my legs for stability.
The only times I felt a little nervous were when we made a turn that was a little sharper than others, or dropped a bit. I held on to the strap more often than not. Other than that, it was a smooth and gorgeous flight.
There were a couple dozen other paragliders out there with us, but we never came close to any. Claudio explained it is because everyone steers in a clockwise direction.
The views of the Annapurna range were unbeatable. What helped my enjoyment was that we were in some kind of updraft (or just really gradually descending) and so we got to slowly loop at nearly the same altitude several times. If I missed the photo of the snow-capped Himalayas the first time, I had a second and third (and fourth and so on) time to try again.


View in the Air
(Back toward the mountains and down toward the lake)


The "Feet" Shot and the Parachute-Cam Shot
Toward the end, Claudio let me steer! This was a blast. One hand each on a strap, I had to pull harder than I thought, but I was totally controlling the direction of the parachute.
After he took over again he, with my permission, gave me a bit of a roller-coaster ride as he swung us up and down and up again. "This looks great on video," he said beforehand. And it did!
We started getting pretty close to the ground then. We jogged to a stop for a smooth landing.


The Landing
Pokhara City Tour
The hotel driver was ready almost immediately upon my return to take me around town, so I hopped in the SUV and we were off. I was glad I had that smoothie for lunch on the way back, even if I had to open the restaurant to get it.
The first stop was Bindhyabasini temple, which I was unimpressed with. The drive these through the narrow streets and the walk up the stairs (it was on the top of a small hill) were more interesting than the temple itself. Many people were gathered up there, but few appeared to be tourists. It looked like a place holy for the locals, but with little architecture, sculpture, or even history to recommend it. Maybe I'm becoming a temple snob. Luckily, my driver was waiting right where I left him.
Some schoolchildren (and guards) either protesting, in a parade, or just marching to school.
And the view down from Bindhyabasini (my favorite part is the guy running up the stairs wearing the orange "I ❤ Pokhara" t-shirt
International Mountain Museum

"Mountain" at the International Mountain Museum
The good: this quiet museum has a nice view through its gigantic windows, some great photographs of well-known and lesser-known mountains, nicely laid-out information about the history of the famous peaks - mainly Everest, and several displays of real mountain gear throughout the history of climbing.
The-not-as-good: The building is pretty low-budget on the inside, I didn't want to use the toilets on quick inspection, and, despite the sign, I could locate not a single souvenir shop.
On the whole, it was worth the extra time to drive out here, but my favorite part was when I was walking on the sidewalk back to the entrance, a large elementary school group out on a field trip was walking toward the museum. Almost all of them said "Namaste" or "Hello" to me (and I returned the greeting.) Very cute. And they loved climbing on the mountain out front.
Devi's Fall / Davis Falls
This is "the most famous waterfall in Pokhara" according to the welcome sign inside. Judging by the amount of booths at the entrance selling jewelry, bags, clothing, trinkets, and other miscellaneous gifts, it clearly is a highlight of Pokhara's tourist route.

Devi's Fall from above
The river flows downstream through the tunnel (right) and leads to the cave, which I talk about next
But the story behind the name is a tragic one. A Swiss tourist drowned here about fifty years back, a woman whose last name was Davis, presumably, but which is sometimes turned into Devi's due to the passage of time and language. The sad story lends some weight to the otherwise ho-hum waterfall.
My favorite part was when an outgoing boy who couldn't have been more than 8 or 9 started talking to me in fantastic English. Really friendly kid! I enjoyed chatting with him.
Gupteshwor Cave
I want to get one thing straight before I start. I like caves. I've always liked caves. I go out of my way to see caves and cave tours and I always enjoy the experience.
But I did not like this cave.
It creeped me out in a way that I cannot explain. In fact, had the passages not been populated with families with kids, groups of women, and other tourists, wandering around at the same time, I might have turned around and left. As it was, I did not make it all the way to the other end of the tunnel that led back to the waterfall. No particular reason, I just got the chills. (That, and the wet stairway that led down toward it did not look very safe.)
The climate really threw me off. As guides on cave tours have told me again and again, the temperature in caves is cool and constant, usually fifty or so degrees Fahrenheit, and often humid.

... because "prohibited" wasn't a
strong enough word.
Not this cave. This cave was HOT. Hot and humid. I am not even sure how this is possible. (Unmentioned thermal underground feature?) I started sweating from more than freaked-out-ness.
There are only a couple points of interest in the cave. One was the terminus, the other side of the tunnel where the river came through. The other was some kind of shrine or temple.
When I looked at the shrine, I thought of death. The whole place had a smell of death, though I suspect it was psychological.
I would have taken a photo of the fenced-off (colorful) holy place, but the pictured sign stopped me. I would have visited it at least, but some dude sitting at a desk (in the middle of the cave) told me I'd have to remove my shoes. This is the only place so far in Nepal that has asked that. The floor of the cave was muddy, wet, and gross. No thanks.
One highlight (besides the amusing signage) was running into the very same group of kids inside as I saw at Devi's falls. The friendly youngster with great English smiled at me, pointed to my forehead and said "sweat?" Hahahahaha, yes indeed.
What I did like, though, was the entrance. The beautiful descent was worth threading my way through the maze of booths selling trinkets beforehand and the disturbing destination at the bottom.
Part of the spiral was under renovation, but still, a very neat locale. Well worth the Foreigner price of $1.
Across Phewa Lake
After the (spooky) cave, my driver returned me to the hotel. I was a little surprised since it was only 2:30 in the afternoon and there was more to see. Like the Peace Pagoda. He did not understand me when I asked about it.
But that desire was easy to fulfill, as it turned out, and in a better way than by car. I spoke with the lady at hotel reception and she told me I could take a boat tour across the lake and hike up to the pagoda, and that there was a canoe rental location just across the street from the hotel, a five minute walk! So off I went.

Lake and World Peace Pagoda, with close up of pagoda
(Look how HIGH it is! I point this out so you can appreciate the elevation later when I whine about it...)
I had to walk through a large gate to get to the road leading to the lake, so I was a little worried that I was on a private street even though it seemed to have homes and maybe a campground within it. There was a weird bearded dude walking on it, perhaps with mental issues, though luckily he kept going the other direction. Finally, I came to the end and saw a sign that said "Boating this way". Sure enough, off to the side was a boat rental place. No customers appeared to be there but quickly enough, a young, friendly man approached me as I was perusing the prices.
He offered me a full tour that involved being guided across the lake, up to the pagoda, then to some nearby waterfall. I agreed even though the price was not completely clear... "600 for the boat guy and a little something for me." Probably a good way to sell it because if he had told me the price I eventually ended up choosing to pay him, I probably would not have gone.
So I got in the canoe with the young guide as well as an older boat driver, who appeared to speak no English, and they paddled me out into the lake. I'm not going to say I was completely one hundred percent comfortable, which can sometimes be part of the deal when you travel solo - getting out of the comfort zone - but I had no intuition alarm bells as I rode in the boat with the two dudes.
Being paddled down the lake and listening to the lapping water as I watched the scenery gradually change was pleasant. I could see the snow-capped mountains beyond the nearby hills, even from this low.

(On the island is Taal Barahi Temple)
I saw a few other boats out on the lake. Some seemed to be tourists, some locals. Finally, we started heading toward one of the tree-choked shores.
I'm not sure I'd have found the landing site that led to the trail up if I'd paddled the canoe myself.

Landing Site for the Pagoda Trail
The restaurant located at the site caught my eye. I can't imagine it gets a lot of lakeside patrons.
Not for lack of trying.

Maybe they were going for irony?
The canoe paddler dropped the guide and I off at the shore and was going to head back. I was supposed to pay him separately. He charged 600, but I only had 500-rupee notes (about US$5) and above. However, like Lonely Planet suggested, I offered him a 100 bill in Indian rupees along with the 500 in Nepali rupees (which technically is an extra 100.) He took the Indian money without question. The notes do not look all that similar, so either Indian rupees are indeed valid currency here or maybe I was being overcharged so much, it didn't matter. The ride took about 30 minutes and he had to canoe back, so it seems a pretty reasonable price. For a rich, white tourist anyway.
Up to the Pagoda!
Now comes the whiny part fun part. And also the best exercise I had in weeks. The hike up!
A sweaty work out or not, it was beautiful.

The Hike and the View, Part One
In the middle of the trail was a random gazebo with tables and canned beverages available from a little refrigerator. A woman was there and I downed the can of 80-rupee pineapple juice she sold me in seconds.
As we rested, the guide told me that there had been incidents of tourists being robbed along this trail (great...) so it was a good thing I was with him.

Mid-trail Break
Then we were back to the ascent...
The guide was starting to breathe a little harder. But maybe he was just trying to make me feel better. At one point a more elderly guy joined us, but then he split off, making the hike look effortless so I can't even use age as an excuse.

The Hike and the View, Part Two
And then, around a bend, then another, and then we finally made it!
My guide took some photos of me, all sweaty. We walked around the perimeter of the pagoda and admired the views, but I did not take off my shoes to go up to the next level of the pagoda. Not a fan of shoe-taking-off.
Even though this is called the World Peace Pagoda, it is not really a pagoda, at least in the way I know the term. It's a stupa, but I think in translation, either of the two terms is accurate.
The view of the Annapurna range was gorgeous. I was lucky to get such clear weather, as I've often seen the peaks shrouded in clouds. The flowers - especially the red ones - were particularly pretty and the sunset views were simply stunning.
After I took my fill of photos, we started back down going on a different, more gradual trail. On the way, we walked through some small neighborhoods and I got to say hello to some local children. I taught my guide the word "alpenglow".
We made it down to the bottom, walked up the street as dusk settled, then he stopped at a place with a lot of trinket stalls and said, "here is the waterfall." I realized we had walked all the way to Devi's falls! I thought he was talking about another waterfall near the pagoda, but I should have realized there is only one waterfall of note in Pokhara. I told him I had just been here this morning. There did not seem much point to going again, especially in the near-dark. (Can't even imagine how scary the cave would be now.)
What this meant, though, was a long walk back. I had gone the most direct route from my hotel to the pagoda, but now we walked a couple miles through the active nighttime streets of Pokhara to get back to my hotel, traversing from Damside to Lakeside. I mentioned I wouldn't mind getting a taxi, but we just wound up on foot.
As we walked, I debated in my head what to pay the guy. Over the course of the tour, I had gone from 400 to 600 to 1000 to 1200 and as I realized how much of his day I was taking up (granted, I did not realize how long this tour was going to be), I settled on 1500. I'm sure I overpaid, but I kinda liked the guy. Granted, I did not actually have any smaller change than that and was not sure he did either. He seemed happy with the amount I handed him. We split up at the gate.
Italian for Dinner
I was starving by the time I walked back (sort of roundabout walking, not really letting him know which hotel I was at) and I decided to go with a Lonely Planet recommended restaurant that was nearby and that actually existed. I took a hot shower first (wishing the towels were just a little cleaner) and walked to Cafe Concerto.
The dinner was decent. The waiter confirmed with me that I knew a calzone was a "folded pizza", too cute. There was a power outage, the second in as many nights, but I just kept right on munching down my calzone, though I did have to pause in my journal updating. I ended the night with some gelato.
View from the Roof
I woke up at sunrise the next morning and walked up the five flights of stairs to the hotel roof for the advertised view.
It was as advertised!

The Top of Kantipur Hotel
On the roof was another woman also enjoying the overlook. I chatted with her as we sleepily watched the sun break the horizon and light up the topmost peaks. Her husband had already gone back to bed. She was a teacher from Kuala Lumpur with cousins in Oklahoma City.
We had near cloudfree skies. Beautiful!

The Panorama Setting on My Camera
Eventually, the woman went back downstairs and I had the roof alone to take yet even more photos.

Stitching Photos Together
The center mountain catches your eye all over Pokhara. Turns out that it is a sacred mountain and closed to climbers. According to the sacred
Wiki, no climber has ever summitted this peak.
The Nepalese name means "fishtail" and looks it!

Mount Machhapuchchhre ("fishtail") Peak
The hotel breakfast is fine, not spectacular, so I decided to go into town for breakfast before my flight back to Kathmandu.
I walked up the main drag, down a local side street and was again along the lakeside. I found "Mike's Breakfast" as my guide book has mapped, but I had to look around for a waiter. I got served breakfast at 8am, though I'm pretty sure I was the first customer. And I made their kitchen work hard, ordering a little of everything.
As I was eating, this polite pup came and joined me. He was nice company, but he did not get any of my food.
Otherwise, I had a relaxing morning by the lake, enjoying the water lapping and colorful canoes.
I walked back to the hotel to get my ride to the airport. (Although I bussed in, I was flying back, just for the heck of it. And to save the many-hour ride back.) I arrived at the humble two-story building too early; security was not open yet. But the upstairs cafe was. It had a nice outdoor seating area overlooking the mountains and cute little runway. What was most interesting about sitting at the table, relaxing, was that most every other person I saw there was a solo foreign woman.
Yes, I took Buddha Air. No complaints.
My seat assignment was about the best it could be. A window seat overlooking the mountains. I could not have asked for better.

An Airline for the Zen

View from Seat 10A
And so that was Pokhara. All in all, a city with beautiful mountain views and a lively tourist industry. Worth the trip even for non-trekkers, but even more amazing if you are able to see the Annapurna range and
Fishtail up close. These are amazing peaks.
Next up, back to the Kathmandu area as I attempt to catch a glimpse of Everest from a distance.
And I leave you with a random nifty prayer-flag tree I saw on my way to the canoe rental: